Tasting Notes: 2005 Peju Estate Cab

For those of you who are Wall Street Journal readers, you may be familiar with the idea of "Open That Bottle Night" (OTBN), when the editors encourage you to finally drink that bottle you've been hanging onto. This Peju has been sitting on my wine rack for almost a year, with special occasions having come and gone. I've meant to open it so many times, and wondered on numerous occasions whether it would have the same balance of power and delicacy that made me fall in love with it when I first tasted it. As always happens, however, the bottle has sat lonely and neglected until tonight. It's oft-given advice - that you've just got to open that bottle sometime; that you should make the wine the occasion rather than perpetually postpone its opening in favor of a worthy event - but this advice is often ignored by wine lovers who would rather let that prized label and vintage sit aside collecting dust than open an unforgettable bottle for a more-than-forgettable evening.

Well, after surviving traffic and hurrying back to pick up my prize, I cradled the Peju under my arm as I rushed down the street (half an hour late) to my favorite restaurant Piccolo, more than excited about finally opening it up in the company of great friends. Nevermind the fact that we were belatedly celebrating cheerful news received in the dead of winter, just as the first hints of spring are revealing themselves; it was the perfect night to enjoy this wine with good company and good food.

As noted in the winery's tasting notes, it's an alcoholic and slightly tannic cab, delicious and enjoyable even for its youth. We let it open up for almost 45 minutes, after which the darkly floral notes became apparent not just in the scent overflowing the wine glasses but very clearly across the palate when enjoyed in slowly savored sips.

We weren't quite finished after wrapping up this bottle, so also tasted a 2005 Paitin Barbaresco from Sori' Paitin that was a ligher, brighter counterbalance to the deep Peju. Also a bit young, we found this one to be almost Burgundian in style with the floral notes providing a softer way to end the evening.

Despite having no better occasion at this point than creating the opportunity to gather close company for a good bottle of wine, none of the food, the friends nor the wine were forgettable. There truly is no better way to pass off the stress of every other part of your day. It's hard to make the time and effort, but if I could, I'd make OTBN a monthly event; at the very least, every couple of months. Pick that bottle up, grab a few friends and open it. After all, it does no one any good, least of all the wine, if it is only passing away the time in a dark corner, stuck alone with a little stub of cork.

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Piccolo
5 Dudley Ave
Venice
310-314-3222

Tasted:
2005 Peju Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
2005 Paitin Barbaresco Sori' Paitin

Hungary for Something New

In the most recent installment of his column The Pour, Eric Asimov explains and explores the possibilities of Hungarian wine, expounding on the benefits of continued exploration for all wine drinkers, be you an intrepid novice or a ratable connoisseur:

"Yet no matter how alluring the desire to fixate on a particular set of wines, experimentation has great virtues. Practically speaking, wines from lesser-known regions are often cheaper. But more to the point, drinking wine with blinders on can deprive you of unexpected, deeply satisfying, even thrilling bottles."

While I thoroughly enjoyed this entree to Hungarian wines outside of the standard tokaji aszu, and noted to add these to my "must try" list, what I most enjoyed about this column was Asimov's appeal to his readers, to be more open-minded and try something new.

I first learned about and to love wine from my father, who is responsible for the foundation of my wine knowledge. He approached the assemblage of his wine cellar with the academic diligence that he applies to all problems, learning about each grape's character and acquiring not only a significant amount of wine to taste, but the corresponding literature to supplement his experiential learnings. Before I could drink wine, he gave me strict instruction in wine etiquette, broke down the elements of particular importance when tasting a wine, and drilled into my memory the particularly exceptional vintage years for his favored wine regions. And of course, when I began to drink more wine, I started out with what I knew, falling into the tendency we all have of choosing the familiar. In this case, it was shaped by my father's favorites - subtle, complex Bordeaux and high-impact California Cabernets.

Given my curious nature, however, I wanted to show off what new things I had learned on my own, and what I could teach my father in return. And so my favorite question when consulting on a wine selection is, "What is your most interesting or surprising wine?" In this manner, I have learned about new varietals and tasted from regions I never would have chosen. Yes, it's easier to describe what I know, but so much more rewarding to come away with a more enlightened or broadened view of the wine landscape. Whether it is a novel and unexpected food-wine pairing, or a taste of something from an entirely unfamiliar region, the sense of fun and adventure in trying the unexpected is what makes tasting so interesting. It is easy to choose the "best" Napa Valley Cab or Grand Chateau Bordeaux when you have enough of a baseline knowledge of that region - but it is so much more exciting to open yourself to something new. Do me a favor, and next time you order a glass of wine, don't stick to what you know - put yourself out there, ask a couple of questions, and see where you end up.

pour, simmer & stir

I opened up a rather disappointing bottle of Portuguese red wine the other night, a 2007 Alianca Foral Douro. It's the first I've ever tried this wine, but I should have known we were off to a bad start when I broke one of my corkscrews on trying to pull out the cork. After letting the wine sit for a bit, I pondered over a glass, but you know it's never a good thing when you keep thinking to yourself, "ok, well maybe the next sip will be better." It was flat, tasted like sour cherries in a musty sort of way, and never really gave me anything interesting to want more.

So now I have a mostly full bottle of wine sitting on my counter, but I don't want it to go to waste. Well, it was close to dinner time, so I decided to use it in scraping together a beef stew. Turns out a mediocre wine makes a wonderful stew! RIP corkscrew, but I'll be enjoying the remnants of the stew for a few more days. The (very) ad hoc recipe below, though I guess you could put together whatever you happen to have in the fridge. Forgive me in advance for my poor recipe composing:

1/2 bottle dry red wine
1/2 lb beef shoulder (lamb would also be a good substitute)
1 carrot, chopped (sliced? I'm no recipe writer)
Portobello mushrooms
Salt
Fresh black pepper
Fresh mint
Olive oil
Butter
Sugar
32 oz chicken stock (or beef if that's handy)

Heat olive oil and butter in bottom of pot. Season meat with salt and pepper, then brown meat on all sides in olive oil/butter. Set beef aside. Pour in red wine and boil for about 25 mins, then add in beef, carrot, mint, mushrooms, onions, garlic or other flavors if you'd like (this wasn't very scientific). Let boil and then simmer, covered, for about 2.5 hours. Flavor with salt, pepper, and some sugar and let simmer for another 30 mins or so. Careful not to over-salt...

The Place: The MUST

Downtown LA is a bit of a confusing place, identity-wise. Until recently, there wasn't much there (except the Lakers, and that's pretty big), but over the last few years and even through the worst of the recession, it seemed a new place was opening up every week. It's an off-putting juxtaposition with upmarket lofts just a block from Skid Row (really - we saw a gorgeous building while walking around, and the next block over was a row of tents, and they were not waiting for the new Twilight); however, there are some truly fun restaurants and bars that have popped up in the area. Just keep your wits about you, and there's some great places to discover.

Lovely Lady N and I dropped into The MUST (wallpaper above), a wine bar right by the downtown gallery district (and Skid Row) that opened this summer. Leave your wine snobbery behind; it's a fun place with the right after-work ambiance and an approachable, affordable list of wines by the glass, carafe, or bottle. Their beer selection is decent as well. The waitstaff is friendly and helpful, and the crowd was a mix of after-work and more laid-back patrons, mostly in 2s or 3s, engaged in lighthearted conversation while huddled close over their glasses.

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The MUST

118 W. 5th Street (at Spring)

Los Angeles

Tasted: 2007 Layer Cake Primitivo

Tasting Notes: Chappellet 2007 Mountain Cuvee

Choosing wine for a party of strangers is never an easy task, but with helpful guidance from our waiter (Joseph the musician), we picked out this gem from BOA W. Hollywood's wine list. This mostly Cabernet / Merlot blend was a crowd pleaser and a surprising wine; also, a great value from a Napa-heavy wine list with some heavy hitters (and fairly reasonable mark-up, at least on this wine).

Chappellet is a Napa winery growing in Pritchard Hill, making large, Bordeaux-style wines of the type we tasted tonight. The Mountain Cuvee is a heavy, juicy wine that is sweet around the edges, though the lighter berry flavors don't take away from its darker notes. It went perfectly with the rich sauces, sides, and red meat dishes being shared at the table. What was unique - described by one of our dinner companions as "offbeat" - was a eucalyptus / minty finish (as described by Joseph). While I haven't played koala recently, I absolutely knew what he meant after my first taste, and wholly enjoyed the effect. I would describe it as a slightly woodsy-herbal finish that leaves your palate feeling dry but refreshed. For me, this twist distinguished the wine from the other tried and true Bordeaux and Meritage wines that are so popular at these big, steak dinners.

At $29 off of the winery's online shop, I'd call it a great value; some other searching turned up alleged $25 price tags.

A brief side note: My one complaint was that the wine list stated a 2006 Chappellet; the manager explained that they only carried 2007, and their wine list must not have been updated. Clearly enjoyed the wine anyhow, and the year was not an issue in this particular case, but would have appreciated a heads-up upfront. Word to the wise, however, to remember to double check the label, esp if it is a situation in which the vintage year makes a difference.

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BOA
9200 Sunset Blvd
West Hollywood

Tasted: Chappellet 2007 Mountain Cuvee (Meritage)
Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot / Malbec / Cabernet Franc / Petit Verdot

In a pinch...

not as snazzy as sabering a champagne bottle, but something for the book of tricks:
Bottle uncorked with a shoe

Tasting Notes: 2005 Kalyra MC2 Santa Ynez Valley

Finally had my first proper wine night in the new apartment on the beach, and a long overdue catch-up with LL was more than enough reason to pull the cork on this wine that has been sitting on the rack for a couple months now.  The science nerd in me was drawn to the bottle by the black and white Hubble telescope image of the universe, but the wine nerd in me had to bring it home because of the wine's smooth drinkability.

Yes, Kalyra was a Sideways winery, but it is a Santa Ynez gem and favorite among many of my other wine-drinking friends in the Southland. The winery was started by an Australian who made his way over to Santa Barbara, and they have made some pretty interesting wines that are imbued with the label's offbeat spirit. MC2 is a Merlot blend, mixed with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc in the Bordeaux style.

These are not wines that will shock your senses, but rather more subtle in their impressiveness. MC2 is at first a soft red that opens up into a creamy, almost velvety wine. The dominant Merlot lends it a fruity sweetness (as far as reds go), but it is a fairly deep wine with a good balance of light tannins. The dark fruit flavors nicely complemented our garlicky hummus snacks, with a bit of chocolate raspberry when it sits full in the mouth. A good value, and an interesting twist on a fairly standard blend.

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Kalyra Winery
343 N. Refugio Rd.
Santa Ynez
(805) 693-8864

Label Notes: "Moving at 5 miles per second The Hubble Space Telescope has orbited the Earth 100,000 times (and counting) traveling over 4.8 Billion Kilometers since being put in Space 18 years ago. [sic]"