One of my first and most vivid wine memories dates from the summer of 2004, when I found myself backpacking through Costa Rica for two weeks during a several-months' stay in the country. We stopped for an evening at Monteverde, a beautiful biological preserve in the rainforest-covered mountains, where there was no question that we would "treat" ourselves to dinner at Morphos, a restaurant that came highly recommended from friends who had passed through the town of Santa Elena a few days before us. Though no standout by Michelin standards, the simple yet carefully prepared dishes were a welcome break from the gallo pinto diet to which we had become accustomed. But onto the wine...
There would be no Imperial or cacique that night; no, we'd move on from the US$1 bottles and really splurge. It was a carmenere from Casillero del Diablo, part of the family of wines produced by Concha y Toro, and which has since worked its way back into my life on more than a few occasions - particularly given that it can usually be found for about $7.
A smoky but easy-drinking red, this carmenere had just enough spiciness to complement a meaty entree, and sparked my interest in the grape. Carmenere has become almost synonymous with Chilean wine as the region's producers have planted and produced it in ever-greater quantities over the last decade. Despite its developing status as a hallmark of New World wines, however, carmenere actually traces its roots to Bordeaux. It was thought to have been rendered extinct until it was found growing in Chile, mistaken for Merlot.
In almost any carmenere you taste, certain traits will be exhibited to varying degrees of clarity, like hints of spice and fruit, usually balanced out with a rougher finish that lingers on the tongue. It is still a wine that is very much in search of an identity, however, as the Chilean producers continue experimenting with winemaking styles and with different blends - softening it up with Merlot, or creating more full-bodied wines with Cabernet. Critics' opinions vary on its viability as a "signature" varietal for Chilean wine, but carmenere will only become more interesting as winemakers become more fluent in manipulating its flavors. Already, even newer winemaking regions have begun picking up on the grape, hoping it will lend their wines a unique edge. It remains a great value, and an interesting addition to one's red wine flavor spectrum.
Even five years on, each taste takes me back to that indelible first meeting. The electricity went out about half way through dinner, leaving us dining in near darkness, so we took our time drawing out the last sips from our glasses. As we exited the flickering glow thrown off by the restaurant's candles, I couldn't help but stop and notice the sky, filled so many stars it seemed one would spill over at any moment - a memorable first impression, indeed.
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Flavor profile: Smoky, peppery, black fruit
Also known as: Grande Vidure
Grown in: Chile; California; Washington; Australia / New Zealand
Further Reading:
The carmenere grape that sets chilean wine apart
Carmenere grape reaches for stardom in Chile
Slashfood tasting
photo: cchiao via flickr
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